The Enigmatic Charm of Cavallo Morto Beach, Amalfi Coast
Not far from the charming town of Maiori lies a hidden paradise that few travelers have the privilege to witness: Spiaggia del Cavallo Morto, also known by its more poetic name, Bellavaia. This secluded cove, inaccessible by land and reachable only by sea, offers a slice of the Amalfi Coast untouched by time, crowds, or convenience—and that is precisely what makes it so special.
Cavallo Morto Beach: a Name Steeped in Legend
The name “Cavallo Morto” translates to “Dead Horse,” and there are multiple tales surrounding its peculiar designation, each blending local lore with the rugged realities of life along the coast in centuries past.
According to the most widely version, dating back to the mid-19th century, this beach served as a discreet dumping ground for deceased horses. Another, more tragic tale speaks of a single horse that accidentally fell from the trail above. Surviving the fall but stranded, the animal eventually perished from hunger and isolation as its owner watched helplessly. A third legend, more nautical and mysterious, recounts a stormy night when a ship carrying horses lost one of its prized creatures to the sea. The body washed ashore at this tiny beach, forever sealing its fate and name in local history.
While the truth may never be fully known, these stories lend the beach a mystical, almost mythological air—one that only adds to its allure. However, locals also call this place Bellavaia, a name that paints a very different picture than “Cavallo Morto.” Translated loosely, it suggests “beautiful bay” or “beautiful way,” and that interpretation might be closer to the experience of being there.
What Is Special about the Beach of the Dead Horse
What truly sets Cavallo Morto apart from other beaches along the Amalfi Coast is its complete isolation, hidden within towering limestone cliffs. Its shape resembles a crescent, which not only provides a natural harbor but also protects it from the prevailing winds—a crucial advantage for the many private boats that anchor there during the summer months.
The beach lies just after the small village of Cetara, approximately four kilometers down the coastline from Erchie, and is the first accessible beach after that stretch. Yet, “accessible” is a relative term. There are no walking paths, stairways, or convenient lookouts. The only way to reach this magical place is by boat—usually departing from Maiori or nearby ports. This exclusivity means the beach is never crowded, even during peak season.
What to Expect When Visiting the Beach of Cavallo Morto
Those lucky enough to visit are greeted by a small beach made up of soft white sand and framed by a mosaic of large, sculptural rocks. These stones, scattered along the sand and at the water’s edge, resemble a kind of natural breakwater, standing like guardians between the sea and the land. Behind the beach, the cliff face shows visible signs of erosion, with sections having collapsed over time—adding to the rugged beauty and sense of raw nature.
The water here is a marvel in itself. Ranging in color from crystal-clear turquoise to deep sapphire blue, it reflects the light in ever-changing ways, especially as the sun begins to set. Unlike other beaches on the Amalfi Coast, where the sun disappears behind the cliffs early in the afternoon, Cavallo Morto enjoys extended golden hour light that brings its textures and crevices to life.
This interplay of light and shadow, coupled with the clarity of the water, makes Cavallo Morto a haven for snorkeling enthusiasts. The absence of large crowds and the purity of the environment allow marine life to flourish. Schools of fish, sea urchins, and other coastal creatures are easily observed in their natural habitat, undisturbed and thriving.
Natural Beauty—and Natural Risks
However, the very isolation that gives Cavallo Morto its magic also makes it potentially dangerous. The cliffs behind the beach are prone to landslides, and local authorities periodically issue warnings or close off the area entirely due to safety concerns.
There are no amenities here—no beach clubs, no restaurants, not even a footpath. This is nature in its most unfiltered state. Visitors must come prepared with everything they need: water, food, sun protection, and perhaps most importantly, a healthy respect for the environment.
As you can see, the Spiaggia del Cavallo Morto is more than just a beach. It is a story, a secret, a sanctuary. Whether you’re drawn by the mystery of its name, the beauty of its waters, or the solitude it offers, it promises an experience unlike any other on the Amalfi Coast.
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